Hiatus in Hanover

The college where I work has their Spring Break this week, which means I get to enjoy a short, much-appreciated (if unfortunately unpaid) vacation from my out-of-the-house job. I always have a long To-Do List, of course, but I also try to set aside one day if possible to take a Photo Road Trip. The only constraints are: the destination must be an outdoorsy-type place, preferably with significant walking-around possibilities, and it should lie within about an hour's driving time, so I can get there, see what there is to see, and get back before Derek arrives home from school at 3. I live in the greater Baltimore/Washington Metropolitan area, so this should be a piece of cake, right? Except that, having roamed fairly extensively in a 60-mile-wide circle for the past several years, I'm running out of inspiration for new places to explore. Expecting temperatures around 80-degrees--in MARCH, unheard of--I racked my brain for a suitable excursion. After scouring tourism websites, I finally decided on Hanover, Pennsylvania....proud home of Snyder's Pretzels and Utz Potato Chips! No, no, that's not the reason. It seems there was a Civil War clash that took place there, one day before the epic Battle of Gettysburg. The Hanover Chamber of Commerce promised a Walking Tour that would explain it all, allowing me to uncover the importance of this tiny town's impact on the history of our nation. (The official information did not mention whether there would be tasty, locally-produced snack foods to sample, but one can always hope, right?)

As a bonus, traveling to the borough of Hanover would take me on a non-highway route, one which I had never followed before. So, armed (ha!) with a water bottle, my trusty Nikon, and directions, I turned the Subaru north toward the Mason-Dixon Line. And commenced a long trek through what can only be described as "farm country". Now, I grew up in rural Maryland, not far from the county I was experiencing (that would be Carroll County, for the curious)...but I had no clue it was this vast, undeveloped area dotted with grazing livestock and working farms. Huh. Anyway, when I cruised into Hanover, the first order of business was to locate the Chamber of Commerce building and procure the necessary brochure to complete my Walking Tour. Approaching one of the two ladies behind the counter, I politely inquired as to where I should begin my journey. They stared at me blankly. Uh oh....not a good sign. After an uncomfortable silence, one of them finally brightened and chirped, "Oh! The pamphlet's over there, on the rack on the wall!" She seemed relived to have come up with the answer. I was not encouraged. Opening the fold-out page, I gazed at the small, simple map to orient myself. "So, it looks like I go out to the right?" I aimed at one of the ladies. "Oh, I don't know, I've never taken the tour," she laughed. Reaaaaaally. How very...useful...to visitors of your fair township. I had only one last question, having driven over an hour and drunk a large amount of water on the way: "Could I use the restroom?" She appeared slightly startled as she asserted, "It's not for the public!" I couldn't help myself--I glanced around to determine if a marauding band of the unwashed masses had snuck in behind me and was threatening to disturb the peace...but no, it was still just...me. Gosh, do you think you could you be any less helpful or welcoming? As though she were reading my mind (or maybe my astonished expression at the ridiculousness of the situation) she hastily added, "Maybe the library? It's a block away!" And she did NOT, in fact, offer me any refreshments. Hanover hospitality = fail!

Honestly, it didn't get a whole lot more exciting or educational from there. The significance of Hanover in the Civil War, according to my leaflet, is that "one of the reasons General Robert E. Lee failed to gain victory at Gettysburg might have been the unplanned encounter at Hanover." Because some of the Union and Confederate forces met and engaged in Hanover, taking up almost an entire day in conflict, reinforcements meant to assist Lee at Gettysburg were delayed and unable to support him. That's pretty interesting, as is the description of the various sites located around Hanover. However, none of the historical landmarks were preserved. All that remains at each spot is a sign that describes what happened and what it used to look like. That's it. Houses, and stores, and in some cases mini-marts have replaced the structures that told the story of Hanover and its part in the War Between the States. As someone who enjoys and respects history, I found this unutterably sad. Furthermore, I didn't even manage to stumble onto all of the places listed on the flyer, (and I was paying attention, trust me) so it's even possible that some of the signs don't exist.

In terms of an enlightening historical field trip, this one was definitely a major bust. But on the upside, I did get to spend several hours meandering around on foot, in the sunshine and balmy breeze, visiting a town I'd never seen before (or, let's be real, am ever likely to wander into again). What I came away with was a study in contrasts. On the one hand, there are gorgeous antique houses, with plaques denoting when they were built--many of them in the late 1800s. Then there are condemned buildings, empty storefronts, and shady-looking businesses. There's a huge, stately, impressive Performing Arts Center and a grand old stone Library. And rowhouses with paint peeling away in strips and crumbling front porches. If this is what counts as the "heartland"...it's sadly in need of CPR. (Thankfully, there is a Hospital nearby, but I didn't get close enough to gauge its condition).

Having marched from one end of town to the other, there was nothing left to do but retrieve my car and start off for home. Perhaps I didn't gain any further understanding about our country's tragic Civil War, but at least I got some exercise, a whole lot of sunshiny-Vitamin D, and a renewed respect for the critical importance of a strong Historical Preservation Society!